Ameyoko Street. 🚂
Running directly alongside (and under) the JR Yamanote Line tracks, this market vibrates every time a train passes overhead. It is famous for vendors shouting "Discount! Discount!" to attract customers.
The Name
"Ameya Yokocho" means "Candy Store Alley." Historically, it sold sugar and American Army goods (black market style).
Haggling
Unlike Ginza, you can haggle here. Especially for fresh fish or bulk spices near closing time.
Street Feast. 🍍
You don't come here for fine dining. You come here to eat fresh fruit on a stick and massive bowls of seafood for cheap.
Fruit Skewers
Look for the sticks of fresh pineapple, melon, and strawberries. They are icy cold and cost ¥100-200.
Kaisendon
"Minatoya" sells bowls of rice topped with fresh tuna and salmon for remarkably low prices (around ¥500-1000). You eat at a tiny table on the street.
Turkish Kebabs
For some reason, Ameyoko is the Kebab capital of Tokyo. The meat is stacked high and the sauce is spicy.
Nakata Shoten
Army Surplus
Bargain Hunt. 👟
This is the best place to buy sneakers. Shops like "London Sports" stack shoes in cardboard boxes on the street, shouting discounts. You have to dig, but you will find treasures.
The Bomber Jacket:
Ameyoko is famous for "Sukajan" (Souvenir Jackets). These satin jackets with embroidered tigers/dragons originated here as souvenirs for US soldiers.
Marishiten Tokudaiji. 🐗
Look up. Sitting *above* the noisy market shops, on the same level as the train tracks, is an ancient temple dedicated to Marishiten, a Buddhist deity riding a wild boar.
The Boar
Worshipped by samurai for victory and strength. You will see boar statues everywhere instead of the usual guardian lions.
The Contrast
Standing in the temple courtyard, you can hear the chanting of monks mixing with the shouting of fishmongers below. It is purely Tokyo.